Water and Water Quality

Thank you for taking the time to read this information. We trust that it will serve to answer many of your questions as they arise.

• "Tap water is supplied for one purpose - human consumption. It is carefully screened, cleaned, treated with prophylactic chemicals and pumped into our homes for our use. It does not, however, carry a guarantee that it is suitable for fish keeping!"(Courtesy, The Encyclopedia of Tropical Aquarium Fish; Dick Mills and Dr. Gwynne Vevers; Tetra Press; page 24).

It is imperative that you have an understanding of the properties of water, and the importance of maintaining water quality.
The the first three of the following water qualities (ammonia, nitrite, pH) need to be tested whenever something appears to be wrong with the aquarium.

pH:
pH of water is a measure of acidity or alkalinity. The pH ranges from 0 to 14, with 7 as the neutral point. Above pH 7 water is alkaline; below 7 it is acidic. Las Vegas tap water will usually measure between 7.8 and 8.2. a pH of 7.0 to 7.5 is ACCEPTABLE for MOST freshwater species you will encounter. African cichlid and marine aquaria should be maintained at a level of 8.2 to 8.4

Ammonia:
Ammonia is the most toxic product formed in water. Sources of ammonia in aquarium water are fish respiration and digestion and decaying foods. Freshwater fish begin to be stressed at levels of .25 ppm (parts per million).

Nitrite:
Nitrite is the toxic intermediary product created in the process of breaking down organic waste products. It occurs between ammonia and nitrate in the breakdown sequence. Levels above 0 ppm are to be avoided in fresh water aquaria.

Nitrate:
Nitrate is a mildly cancerous end product of the breakdown of nitrogenous waste products in the aquarium. And is virtually harmless to MOST fresh water species. Most hobbyists don't need to measure this water quality.

Chlorine:
Chlorine is a gaseous chemical additive used to destroy bacteria. It is lethal to fish at .2 - .3 ppm. Chlorine will dissipate from moving water naturally in 24 hours without the use of chemical neutralizers. Most hobbyists don't need to measure this water quality.

Alkalinity:
Alkalinity is a numeric measure of the resistance of water to a change in pH as acid is added. The higher the alkalinity number, the better. Most hobbyists don't need to measure this water quality.

Hardness:
Hardness is a measure of dissolved calcium and magnesium salts in water. If the water is too hard for your specific application (such as breeding certain species), simply mix it with deionized or RO water until the required hardness is obtained. Most hobbyists don't need to measure this particular water quality.

Specific Gravity:
The specific gravity (or density) is the ratio of the amount of total dissolved salts in water when com- pared to pure water. Pure water has a specific gravity of 1.000. As more salts are added to the water, the specific gravity increases. Usually only measured for brackish, saltwater, and reef aquariums.

Calcium:
Calcium carbonate is the building block of coral skeletons, clam shells and calcareous algae. Corals, soft corals, clams, snails, scallops, shrimps, crabs, starfish, sea urchins and some algae extract calcium from the water continuously. Reef aquarium levels should be at least 400 ppm. Usually only measured for reef aquariums.

Phosphate:
Phosphate is a salt, commonly found in tap water, which serves as an algae nutrient.

CAUTION- Stability is as important as water quality.
Adjustments to existing water chemistry MUST be made very gradually.